Footwork
Why
is precise footwork one of the most important techniques to
master in climbing?
Foot
Anatomy
Unbelievably,
the feet contain a quarter of all of the bones of the body!
Each foot contains 26 bones with 31 joints, and 33 muscles
with over 100 ligaments. The foot has three arches, which
give the foot flexibility and absorb shock, which are formed
from the structural alignment of the bones, ligaments and
muscles.
Feet
can push, pull and grip when climbing - Be 'active' in your
foot placements. Push from your
feet. Be precise.
Focusing on footwork will improve your climbing. Footwork
can become an art form.
Footwork
essentials
A good fitting shoe is essential.
Clean
your boots before climbing ('squeaky clean boots' are essential).
LOOK ahead for the holds (slopers, dishes, edges, pockets,
dinks, cracks,
rounded, irregular).
Place
your foot accurately on the best part of the hold first time,
so that you don't have to move it again.
Usually the inside edge of your big toe is used, but the outside
edge can also be used when backstepping or laybacking.
Follow
your foot with your eyes, like a tennis player follows the
ball.
Be silent and decisive. Being silent will also help with focus.
A
climber must find the best way to use gravity to keep the
foot weighted in place.
Use an appropriate amount of
force to keep the foot in place.
On
steeper ground, accurate foot placements conserve upper body
strength.
Keep
the foot still and use the ankle as a hinge.
TRUST that your feet will stick. Use a mantra such as 'sticky
feet'.
Stand on tip-toe to gain extra height - see toe & foot
strengtheners.
Keep
your centre of gravity over your feet.
Only use the amount of boot necessary to stand on a hold.
Don't rush movements.
If you are a wall climber you will find that you use your
arms far more than your feet. When climbing on rock learn
to focus on your feet.
Edging
(small edges)
Clean boots.
Keep the heel above the hold to maintain pressure.
Line up your boot on the edge.
Edge at the angle of the hold.
A
flexible and strong ankle will give more movement once you
have placed your foot allowing
you to use your ankle as a hinge,
keeping your foot in place. On smaller footholds it becomes
more important to use the ankle as a hinge.
Smearing
(rounded, blank, sloping, irregular)
Clean boots.
Look for irregularities in the rock.
Find the limit of the grip of your shoes.
Keep the heel lower than your toe this is the most relaxed
position for your calf muscles.
Downward dog is good for stretching the calf muscle out.
Heel down will provide more surface area on a slab.
Fully weight the foot and keep a steady pressure.
Take small steps.
Be confident and trust that your feet will stick.
Lean back for more rubber contact and you will see much more.
Keep in balance.
Pockets
(Toeing in)
Point toe and jam as much of the toe
into the pocket as possible.
Cracks
Twist the foot into the crack to jam.
Heel Hooking
Use the foot as an extra
hand above or out to the side on steeper rock. Used to move
around bulges, roofs and overhangs.
Toe Hooks
Push the toe into a horizontal break
and hook the rock with your toes to hold the body in place.
Bring
more awareness to your feet by practicing yoga postures.
"Every
so often, it's a good idea to make your feet your primary
focus through a whole yoga practice. Almost every yoga pose
engages the feet and reflects their actions up through the
body in a slightly different way." Tias Little
Articles on the feet!
The Foot by Tias Little
http://www.tiaslittle.com/images/PDF/GroundUp.pdf
Yoga for the Feet by Pam Werner
http://www.sunandmoonstudio.com/Articles/feet.html
Feet First
by Julie Gudmestad
http://www.yogajournal.com/practice/1298_1.cfm
Happy Feet by Melanie
Haiken
http://www.yogajournal.com/health/2292_1.cfm
Step Lively by Laura Shin
http://www.yogajournal.com/practice/1014_1.cfm
