Yamas & Niyamas



Eight Limbs of Yoga
The eight stages of yoga are: Yama (ethical disciplines); Niyama (self observation); Asana (posture); Pranayama (breath control); Pratyahara (sense withdrawal); Dharana; (concentration/ focus); Dhyana (meditation); Samadhi (a state of joy or peace/ contemplation/a perfect flow of attention on something that provides a superconscious experience).

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Yama translates as 'bridle' or 'rein' and is divided into five ethical disciplines; Ahimsa (non harming/kindness); Satya (truth); Asteya (non-stealing); Brahmacharya (moderation/ self restraint); Aparigraha (non-possessiveness/non-attachment non-hoarding - self reliance).

Niyama is also divided into five moral observances; Shaucha (purity/clarity/cleanliness); Santosha (contentment); Tapas (commitment/ perserverance/ practice causing change or heat); Svandhyaya (study or education of the self); Isvara Pranidhana (surrender - devotion, surrender to a higher force).


How can these ethical disciplines or moral observances be applied to climbing?


Yamas (Ethical Disciplines)
Ahimsa : Non-harming or kindness
Practicing non -harming (no pain/ injury) in thoughts, words, feelings and action.
Maintain compassion to yourself and others.
Cultivate awareness and feeling when climbing instead of forcing.

‘Taking a deep breath and ‘trying softer’ is always more
fruitful than cursing and throwing a fit.’ Eric Horst

If you have an injury don't do movements that will make it worse. Accept that you need to work with the injury in a nurturing, non agressive way.
Muscle imbalances are often responsible for many common climber injuries. Maintain muscle balance in the forearms, upper arms, and shoulders.
If your shoulders, elbows, wrists or fingers have any pain - rest and recover.
Injuries and strains particular to climbers can be corrected with a regular yoga practice.
Don't overtrain.


http://www.climbinginjuries.com/

Satya : Truth
Be truthful with your thoughts, words and actions.
Be truthful to yourself and others.
Don't fear the truth.
Assess your climbing ability honestly.
Listen to your own body and what is true to you for your recovery. It might not be your expectation or what other climbers are doing, but it's what is true to you.
View climbing experiences as they are, through conscious awareness and mindfulness.
What holds you back - the mind or the body? Be truthful to the more negative aspects of this even if you don't like them.
Accept where your body is in the present moment. Today you may be able to climb a hard route, maybe next week you'll struggle on the same route. Don't force your body to do what it's not ready to do.

"The more we lead a life of honesty, the more we will see the results, and that will encourage us to be more honest." Yoga Sutra II.36.

Asteya : Non-stealing
"Refers to the stealing that grows from believing we cannot create what we need." Aadil Palkhivala
If you hold back in a climbing movement you could be stealing from energy that is there, but you don't believe that you can do the move.
Don't attempt to do routes beyond your limit which require a lot more preparation. Be sensitive to limitations and progress towards harder routes intentionally.

Brahmacharya : Moderation/ self-restraint
Use your energy wisely.
Respect the limits of your movement and range of motion.
Don't muscle through moves.
Preserve as much energy as possible.
Don't overtrain.
Stay balanced in thoughts, words and actions.

Aparigraha : Non-attachment or self-reliance
Don't strain or force your body into climbing a route that someone else has just climbed - because of peer pressure for instance.
Don't be jealous of what other people have.
Believe in your own judgements.
Don't attach yourself to concepts of how things should be!
Practice non-attachment to the ego or to the outcome of a situation.
Work on your own body at your own capacity.

“Be aware of the strong pull of the mainstream, go out and try something novel, be an individual and look for your own way in climbing.” John Gill

"Aparigraha, in its essence, helps us discover our own selves so that we no longer feel the need to covet what someone else has, or be what someone else is." Aadil Palkhivala

“Yogah karmusa kaushalam”
“Perfection in action is Yoga. An act becomes perfect when you do it with all joy and without expecting anything in return.” 2: 50 Bhagavad Gita.


Niyamas (Moral Observances)
Saucha : Clarity/ Purity
Be clear in a movement. Move with intention.
Be pure in your decisions. Have no doubt.
Be pure in your intentions.

“If your mind is unsteady and wandering, many branched and endless are the thoughts and choices. When your mind is clear and one-pointed, there is only one decision.” 2:41. Bhagavad Gita

Santosha : Contentment
Practice mindfulness and breath awareness when climbing, to be in the moment.
Feel contentment with just climbing. Just be as you are.
Asana, pranayama, and meditation, as well as the yamas and niyamas, can contribute to contentment.
Contentment is to experience being at ease in one's situation.

"For me, climbing is a form of exploration that inspires me to confront my own inner nature within nature. It is a means of experiencing a state of consciousness where there are no distractions or expectations. This intuitive state of being is what allows me to experience moments of true freedom and harmony". Lynn Hill, Climbing Free

"By contentment, supreme joy is gained." Yoga Sutras II.42.

Tapas : Commitment/ Perserverance
Climbing with tapas means climbing with commitment and perserverance. To progress in balance, strength and endurance you might have to step outside your comfort zone to experience change.
Tapas is required to change the course of our habits.
Accept a little heat when it comes. Don't always look for a cool situation.
But don't go to extremes.
Practice (climb) with sincerity and zeal without looking for some personal gain.

"I am the fragrance of the earth, the brilliance in fire, the life in all beings, and the purifying force in austerity." Bhagavad Gita 7:9

Swadhyaya : Study/ Education of Oneself
Study that concerns the true self - really try to understand.
Identify unconscious habits in climbing. Develop an inner awareness. Observe your actions and reflect on your experiences - positive and negative.
Watch out for your ego stepping in.
Maintain full awareness in the movement.
When climbing a route be an observer of your thoughts and emotions - Not just on the surface but deep down.
Study with the heart and not just the mind.

Ishvara prandhana : Surrender (to a higher force)
Fully let go. Trust that it will be okay. Believe and give everything to the move in climbing - without doubt. SURRENDER!


"While resting at the belay, I looked across the valley at the face of Middle Cathedral. On its mottled wall I noticed a play of shadows form the shape of a heart. I have always noticed symbols around me, and the heart on stone reminded me of the values that have always been most important in my life and in climbing. My own development as a climber has been a extension of the experiences, passion and vision of others. For me , free climbing the Great Roof was an opportunity to demonstrate the power of having an open heart and spirit. Though I realized that I could easily fall in my exhausted state, I felt a sense of liberation and strength knowing that this was an effort worth trying with all my heart. I had a strong feeling that this ascent was part of my destiny and that somehow I could tap into that mysterious source of energy to literally rise to the occassion.” Lynn Hill, Climbing Free



Yama and Niyama articles

Judith Hanson Lasater
http://www.judithlasater.com/a/beginningthejourney.html


Aadil Palkhivala
Teaching the Yamas in Asana Class
http://www.yogajournal.com/for_teachers/984

Teaching the Niyamas in Asana Class
http://www.yogajournal.com/for_teachers/976


Kelly McDonigal
http://www.openmindbody.com/ethicsandphysio.htm